Nate Post on Metamorfosis, 5.11- (wide)
An incredible line that holds a secret surprise up high. Love the wide? At its best 5.11 off-width. At its worst, getting lowered.
This is a story of a beautiful little cheese town nestled next to a true gem (with many cracks).
So ask yourself….. What makes an area world class?
If someone were to ask me what makes a [climb] world class I would say; difficulty at the given grade to start. Not sand bagged as this doesn’t make a climb better, just harder. [The ‘Yosemite Decimal System’ is a gauge of accuracy that with improper díctate by the FF ascensionist can actually take away from a climber’s experience.]
Well for me I can tell you a ho-hum route is a one move wonder. Yada, yada, yada, hurrrrr, yada, yada, yada. Lots of movement, but predictable. 200 feet of climbing with one hard move.
On the flip side of this pebble pulling record is the vertical battle. The brawl. The climbing route that is so committing that once both hands, and feet touch the rock it’s game on! Start the struggle clock.
At whatever grade the climb is given, from the ground to the top, defying gravity is the name of the game. This to me is an everlasting memory ingrained on my brain of what makes a “must do” line.
Arielle Scholz on Amo la Sombra, 5.8+ (wide)
Depending on a person’s hand size a crack route may be loved or hated.
So if a tenuous technique-driven bout with gravity makes a five star climb then what exactly makes a World Class climbing area? Is it enough to have a collection of climbs that dictate monster strength and climbing technique? Sure, having both always helps but there is so much more that makes up a great crag. A climber could have the strength of a pack of wild animals and the technique of a Russian Ballerina, but put those balled feet in an awkward stance with zero wind pointed directly in the blaring sun and all bets are off…. the sun is very rarely your friend, if ever, when climbing hard.
La Concepción
Located just outside Aculco de Espinoza, Mexico. World Class Rhyolite Cracks.
So I’ll let anyone reading these words in on a little secret called La Concepción on the outskirts of Aculco, Mexico. An area far enough away from Mexico City and Queretaro that folks only show up on three day weekends.
Below is a peek into the life of a rock climbing guide, where I choose to spend my time and to me what makes an area not just good, but World Class.
Nate on the FFA of Perra Negra 5.11+
All day shade is not just a myth. We know it’s real and we capitalize on it. Nate sending his first free first ascent on a super hard line that tests the limits on gravity.
What makes an area World Class?
The weather~
Aculco de Espinoza is located three hours North of Ciudad de México and two hours South of Querétaro City in Central México.
At 8,000 feet above sea level and 1,300 miles North of the equator the weather hovers around 75 degrees every day, of every month, of every year.
Aculco is México’s version of San Diego (weather wise) but a whole lot more fun.
Imagine yourself climbing in a peaceful river valley where the weather is perfect 365 days a year with enormous oak trees for abundant shade and song birds singing tweet, tweet, tweet! This is the reality of a land that time has forgotten.
La Concepción and her Rhyolite splitters.
Looking at the cliff from the waterfall shows the abundance of climbing in such a condensed area. Every three feet a completely different climb in every way.
The climbing~
This area is commonly known to the locals as La Concepción as the ‘birthplace’ of the river is a short distance upstream.
The farmers in the immediate vicinity refer to the area as La Cascada as the entrance to the climbing is forever guarded by a huge waterfall leading into a river valley.
The climbing is Rhyolite traditional cracks with primarily “G” rated gear. There are a handful of mixed routes where gear isn’t available but this is the exception versus the rule being 99% of the routes have gear wherever one may choose to place it.
Rhyolite; ever touched this very rare climbing stone? Basalt, sure. But Rhyolite? Both are related, both certainly in the volcanic family, but these are very distant relatives. Rhyolite crack climbing dictates core strength, body tension and technique. Where Basalt cracks are linearly uniform, more predictable and can beat up the fingers and hands.
The crag.
Every three feet there is another crack. Every line is completely different. No two moves are the same in this entire area. Think about that…..
Rhyolite is a mixed bag of tricks on stone that one’s hands find quite pleasurable. Yeah, some like to wear tape gloves but they really aren’t necessary.
From the moment a climber touches the rock to the final sequence of moves thirty meters later the rock wants to spit a climber off. It’s what we call the Blue Collar brawl.
La Concepción is not white collar climbing. Being delicate will only add to the insult.
Sam on Cabaretera, 5.11
Routes like Cabaretera make this area World Class. Amazing climbing, super solid gear and never ever a gimme. You best bring your A game.
Get ready for the best single pitch, hands, fingers, ring-locks, lay back and stem climbing on the Northern Continent. This is a blue collar brawl for those who know how to fist-a-cuff. Do you love cracks? Like really love crack??? This would surely be a place to spend time.
La Muerte de un Cadaver, 5.11-
Looking for a world class climb that will be proof positive of how amazing this area really is? Make sure to bring one #6 cam for the top.
The town of Aculco~
Aculco de Espinoza (most likely one of the nicest towns in México) is located (by vehicle) about ten minutes East of the climbing area. There is no real necessity to have personal transportation while visiting as there are provincial taxis that escort townspeople and climbers alike back and forth from the climbing area to town for about $30 pesos.
Aculco
A little cheese town with a lot of charm.
What is a “Magic Town”? In 2001 the Mexican Government created the 'Pueblos Mágicos' program to recognize small towns across the country that imbue certain characteristics that make them unique, special, or historically significant by offering magical experiences to all its visitors.
Aculco has the Magic Town status as it is a beautiful place to visit for the National history, architecture, townsfolk and the food. One quick trip to town and it will be obvious why such an assignment is so rightfully deserved.
As a side note: I traveled down from El Potrero Chico on an extended road trip. I had a map with a penned circle around the town and the advice of a climber that “you climb trad?” “Travel South and check this place out” is what I was told. Within ten minutes of being in town talking to the locals I knew one thing for sure…. This is where I belonged. Where I deserved to live. I returned to my ranch in the North, put up a For Sale sign and sold the place four days later. I’ve never regretted that decision, ever.
While in town, plan to visit the enclosed town market for all food supplies. Comida Corrida (fast lunch), fruits, vegetables, and anything else needed is located there. This market is the nicest I’ve seen in all the towns I’ve visited.
When in the town proper, walk around and visit the Church (constructed in 1540), bakeries, Mole stores or any of the multitudes of homemade cheese shops.
If a sit down meal is in order, check out any of the spectacular restaurants in and around the main square. Google Maps has the restaurants listed and a quick scan of their reviews will leave no doubt about the quality of what is being served.
Short on climbing chalk or need another #6 cam? Take a stroll over to ‘La Deportiva’ (sports park) and visit SouthernXposure Climbing School and Guide Service. My house and office is directly across from the soccer fields and we have pretty much anything a climber could need in a pinch. Just ask for ‘El Gringo de Aculco’ and anyone in town will point you in the right direction.
The people~
Have you ever heard of a climbing area where climbers aren’t exactly embraced? The Red River Gorge in Kentucky was such a place through the early 90’s into the 2000’s. People there saw no real benefit of strangers being around and they sure knew how to voice their disdain. Hueco Tanks another location where climbers could leave and no one would care. These locals see no benefit to climbers or any outsiders really and in different ways let their feelings be recognized.
Luckily the locals close to The Red have come around and are now embracing strangers. Tourism there is booming! Local jobs are tied to the influx of tourists and that rising tide raises all ships. I love the people of Eastern Kentucky. I have friends there that don’t exactly understand climbing…. But they know they have something special and this gives them a sense of pride that is needed. Unfortunately there are still areas on the Northern Continent where climbers get the cold shoulder but Aculco definitely isn’t one of them.
Aculco is a tourist town filled with friendly people who (as all farmers do) like to get the skinny on why the area is so appealing to folks from so far away. Expect people to start conversations with you regarding the familiar four (why? where? what? and do you like the town?). Some towns folk may ask you to dinner (so be prepared) and all enjoy the ability to practice their English. Just remember while in town (and México) that life moves a little slower. Like making a perfect glass of fresh squeezed orange juice; great experiences take time. Definitely get a glass while in town! Delicious!!!
So here lies a brief synopsis of why Aculco is a fine place to visit and climb. If anyone needs any more convincing I guess someone they know will return with a stellar trip report. My mantra? Be the first, not the last. Leading a route is a totally different experience than following.
Come and visit anytime. I’ll leave the light on for ‘ya.
Simeón
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